A rear end impact could punch that battery pack through your children, start arcing and set the car on fire. A front impact can set that battery that has nothing securing it to the cars body but only the two fold down back seats! hurtling towards the front windows with only seats and passengers trying to stop that from happening. And your response! Its dangerous to store gas cans in your car. Yikes!
WOW! this doesn't look like the hill billy stupidest idea, not like anybody can turn themself into instant burnt toast if they go to the boot or in an accident wont be wearing that battey pack as a hat. Better idea, install a tow hitch and add a trailer with a generator on the back, maybe bolt some wind turbines to the roof as well.
Connecting external cables prior to the contactors is pretty stupid. Any damage to those cables ( e.g. in a crash) and the whole thing will turn into an arc welder with no way to isolate it – if you're lucky the pack fuse might blow, if not then it's going to arc away until the whole car is melted and on fire.
Low mileage is not a Nissan LEAF'problem. It's owner's problem. Buy new modules and have fun driving, without any Webasto heaters and twinbats in the trunk. Now I have real same as original modules for upgrade. Not original module , but same as nissan's, is avaible now! 24/30/40kwh
I hope you remembered to toss in a hand full of desiccant packs before you closed and sealed the battery case. Looks like you live in a place that sees considerable temperature swings. With nearly 400V inside it wouldn't take but a little condensation to undo a lot of hard work and ruin your day.
Three things 1. You could improve the instrumentation by adding a CAN-bridge to add more GIDS onto the CAN-bus https://github.com/dalathegreat/Nissan-Leaf-Bruteforce-Upgrade/ 2. You need a better safer way to tie down the battery in the trunk. In the event of a collision, ratchet straps aren't gonna cut it, wouldn't want to put your family in danger! 3. The code might be due to insulation resistance. If you modify the HV harness the car might pick up on something not being right.
I'm still holding on the to my 2011 leaf. Nissan replace the battery 3yrs ago at 48k miles. the new "lizzard" battery handle the hot weather well, so far only lost one bar.
Great work! What happens when the car display shows 0 miles, but you still have power due to the added batteries? Will it cause any other issues? Or it is just that the remaining distance indication goes down lower, but under 100-150 km it shows the "correct" remaining distance?
Awesome. So the ionic batteries are just just parallel on the 0v and 400v connections to the leafs? but not the intermediates between cells ? Are you going to run a seperate BMS for the ionic batteries ?
After a second look, I can see that you bypass the current sensor only. No shunt found in the junction box with relays. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HSKXRVPO10s&t=39s You are good to go with your setup because you have a BMS with the bank of batteries in the trunk which I do not have with my set up.
Very ambitious project very cool. Question what happens to those batteries in the trunk should somebody rear end your car are they fused do they disconnect or will something bad happen?
Ya the fuse at least didn't blow the resistor so now trick the can bus into not knowing it is receiving power it should work. Maybe a connection at the motor instead. Good luck
At least the batteries will stop a car in an impact 💥🌋
A rear end impact could punch that battery pack through your children, start arcing and set the car on fire. A front impact can set that battery that has nothing securing it to the cars body but only the two fold down back seats! hurtling towards the front windows with only seats and passengers trying to stop that from happening. And your response! Its dangerous to store gas cans in your car. Yikes!
WOW! this doesn't look like the hill billy stupidest idea, not like anybody can turn themself into instant burnt toast if they go to the boot or in an accident wont be wearing that battey pack as a hat. Better idea, install a tow hitch and add a trailer with a generator on the back, maybe bolt some wind turbines to the roof as well.
Hi what are the extender cells ?
Connecting external cables prior to the contactors is pretty stupid. Any damage to those cables ( e.g. in a crash) and the whole thing will turn into an arc welder with no way to isolate it – if you're lucky the pack fuse might blow, if not then it's going to arc away until the whole car is melted and on fire.
Is this not a deathtrap, if your involved in any sort of collision with all that weight sitting behind you?
Low mileage is not a Nissan LEAF'problem. It's owner's problem. Buy new modules and have fun driving, without any Webasto heaters and twinbats in the trunk. Now I have real same as original modules for upgrade. Not original module , but same as nissan's, is avaible now! 24/30/40kwh
I hope you remembered to toss in a hand full of desiccant packs before you closed and sealed the battery case. Looks like you live in a place that sees considerable temperature swings. With nearly 400V inside it wouldn't take but a little condensation to undo a lot of hard work and ruin your day.
Three things
1. You could improve the instrumentation by adding a CAN-bridge to add more GIDS onto the CAN-bus https://github.com/dalathegreat/Nissan-Leaf-Bruteforce-Upgrade/
2. You need a better safer way to tie down the battery in the trunk. In the event of a collision, ratchet straps aren't gonna cut it, wouldn't want to put your family in danger!
3. The code might be due to insulation resistance. If you modify the HV harness the car might pick up on something not being right.
I'm still holding on the to my 2011 leaf. Nissan replace the battery 3yrs ago at 48k miles. the new "lizzard" battery handle the hot weather well, so far only lost one bar.
You might look here at the canbus issue. https://youtu.be/9iEJBpOfoI4
Great work! What happens when the car display shows 0 miles, but you still have power due to the added batteries? Will it cause any other issues? Or it is just that the remaining distance indication goes down lower, but under 100-150 km it shows the "correct" remaining distance?
Awesome. So the ionic batteries are just just parallel on the 0v and 400v connections to the leafs? but not the intermediates between cells ? Are you going to run a seperate BMS for the ionic batteries ?
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OIUjmi1OBAY&t=12s
What about the gasses when ur drinving can u tell
Its good we like in na or else
What is 86km is that 120 miles
What are those modules in the trunk off?
After a second look, I can see that you bypass the current sensor only. No shunt found in the junction box with relays.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HSKXRVPO10s&t=39s
You are good to go with your setup because you have a BMS with the bank of batteries in the trunk which I do not have with my set up.
I am waiting for the follow up video
Honest officer they are just batteries 😳
NICE brother. Sorry you had to do it all over. Thanks for sharing. I know what not to do !! God Bless
Well done, shout out to your family for putting up with your experiments, we all appreciate it very much.
Looking forward to part 3, not sure if able to get a BMS from another leaf to unlock more power (I think the DCFC was limited by BMS to 20kW-ish)
Very ambitious project very cool. Question what happens to those batteries in the trunk should somebody rear end your car are they fused do they disconnect or will something bad happen?
Big Job. At least you worked it all out. I think you will need to build a solar carport to park it under now.
So what was the code at the end the saga continues. Lol good luck and happy easter. Cant wait till we see a video where you now doubled your range
"Visit Dealer"….lololol
cool
Ho Power!
Cool mod. Too bad you couldnt redo that shunt with an aftermarket one.
Very nice, glad you got it working!
Ya the fuse at least didn't blow the resistor so now trick the can bus into not knowing it is receiving power it should work. Maybe a connection at the motor instead. Good luck